Phnom Pehn - a broken heart

Took a rather empty bus from Battembang towards Phnom Pehn, excited to have 2 chairs to sprawl across each. Half way there, at least 45 local Cambodian’s boarded the bus, there were perhaps 25 seats remaining. So they had a discussion for about 20 mins amongst themselves and then placed themselves in the aisle, standing up next to the loo, 3 to a seat etc. They smiled at us and laughed at our astonishment.  By the time we go to the outskirts of the city the bus was at least 40 degrees (window’s had been opened destroying any chance the a/c had) so we were all happy to get off.

We had heard less than glowing reports about the capital but we were pleasantly surprised to find a rather beautiful city with lush gardens, French architecture and an incredible view of the vast Mekong. We were taken to the OKAY guesthouse by our funny Tuk Tuk driver speaking fluent English. The next morning he picked us up again to take us to the Killing fields, approx 15kms out of town. The tuk tuk ride took us through the city and out to where the buildings stopped and the paddocks re emerged again, it was apparent that Phnom Pehn is a HUGE city.

We arrived, paid $2 and went into the museum that told us the story of the KR and Pol Pot, among many things we learnt that most people who were killed here came directly in trucks from the S21 and many other prisons from around the country.  We then walked out to see what is part of a tragic history - the killing fields themselves. On the trail out, we were faced with the Stupa that was erected in the 90’s to hold the remains of those who had been exhumed in a more respectful manner, keeping in mind that many many mass graves still remain. The path then took us behind the Stupa to a field that has lots of craters, each bearing as a reminder of an exhumed mass grave. As you walk along the many winding little tracks, there is a heavy eerie feeling. After a while the feeling could be explained - by the bones you see at the surface of the ground in every direction you look. There are still many remains that are yet to be exhumed and they are literally just under your feet on the track that you walk. White brittle splinters that emerge from through from the earth belong to those who were murdered here by the Khmer Rouge genocide. It’s hard to fathom it only ended just 32 years ago.

 The Stupa at the killing fields

Inside, the remains of those who were exhumed

Craters, on the killing fields

Remains showing through the earth

Reminders of the atrocities, including bones

If that wasn’t sad enough, our next stop was the S21 Prison which was once a school and still shows the resemblance of a happy place for kids to learn with the monkey bars still in tact. But mostly it was just a horror story. There are four formidable buildings, each three stories. The first had been converted into a museum of pictures. The KR documented, photographed and obtained confessions from every prisoner that went through it’s doors. The KR also intended to kill each and every one of these people and succeeded almost 100%. Unbelievably there were only 7 survivors from the estimated 15000 that went through its doors and only 3 willing to talk about it. Today the ‘mugshot’ like photos of each person is a visual reminder of the masses of gentle innocent people that were subjected to horror. 

 The outside of S21

The next two buildings still had the remains of what was used to torture or imprison, metal beds, shackles, farm tools, hastily made holding cells complete with chains etc. Each room had a photo of how it was found by Vietnamese Journalists once the KR had been overthrown (they were drawn to the hidden school by the smell of the dead), usually a prisoner  tortured to death, shackled to a metal bed. Most rooms still bore blood stains. I think the one thing you we took away from the experience was the sheer brutality of the KR, they didn’t execute the innocent, they tortured or subjected them to a harrowing interrogation and a painful death. After 2 hours, we returned back to the guesthouse somber. These sorts of things don’t creep under skin all at once, it‘s a slow process of sadness and dull heartache for the Cambodian people today and those who suffered then.

Dave viewing photos of prisoners who had died during their interrogations/torture

Examples of the photos of each prisoner as they entered, taken by the KR as part of their extensive documentation

A photo taken by the Vietnamese journalists who the found the prison after the collapse of the KR

The same bed today...

We paid $5 the next day to use a hotel pool, a lovely old French establishment called the Pavilion. We were to see the Royal Palace beforehand, but with an asking price of $6 each we opted for the pool and took pictures of the Palace from the outside. The hotel we relaxed at was just $50 a night, it’s amazing the value you can get in Asia. However out budget in closer to $10 where you have to request toilet paper - boohoo :) After a full day of relaxation we were ready to move on. 

Dave, in and around Phnom Pehn

Swimming at the Pavilion Hotel