Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Battembang - with a bang

PICTURES FINALLY UPDATED!! PHNOM PEHN coming up soon.....

From Siem Reap, we took a speedy bus to the town of Battembang, a interesting stop off before Phnom Pehn. As we got off the bus we were ambushed by desperate tuk tuk drivers asking us to go to their commissioned guest houses. We found a driver that had the guest house we wanted to stay at, on his list. He was so grateful and his story was very sad about  the very little work available. As much as we’re aware of sob story’s told tourists, this one felt real and truly sad. We booked him for the next day to take us to the three hotspots in the area - the killing cave, the reservoir and the bamboo train.

 On our way there..melon anyone?

Tuk Tuk ride
 A line of little cows...

The killing cave was used by the Khmer Rouge as one of the many places to kill and then dump bodies. It is at the top of a cliff, which we trekked up in 40 degree heat, with many temples, monks and people pointing us in vague directions towards the cave. We found some artwork depicting the atrocities and made our way down …It was eerie and cold in the cave, where we lit incense and gave an offering. There were 2 cages of bones that had been removed from the cave, a very sad and tragic site…

 The Killing cave artwork before we entered 
Inside the cave
Dave giving an offering
Please look away if you're faint hearted, or broken hearted by what happened here...
exiting from the cave...
At the top of the cliff visiting the temples


Our next destination was a reservoir that our driver recommended to us which was a good 26km out of town. The ride was hot and dusty but very interesting as we got to see some of the real Cambodia. We were so hot and ready for a swim by the time we arrived so the reservoir was a site for sore eyes  and interestingly already full of locals (construction workers, kids, families, men washing etc) cooling off. As the only westerners for miles, we were a hilarious site to be seen  - with local men even splashing us while we tried not to slip over. 

Can you spot Dave?
Neil and Dave getting into reservoir..
Getting splashed by locals!
Cooling off
The water was heavenly!
Relaxing after a hard day swimming..

Next stop was the bamboo train, where you pay $3 per person to be taken on a “train” made from a flat bamboo board, propped on 2 axles with a portable motor. A 16 year old kid then takes you for a ride down the actual train tracks, giving way ( to give way is to take your “train” off the tracks, and wait for the other to pass, then place your “train” back onto the tracks) to other bamboo trains which have more people on board, or an ACTUAL train. These kids go FAST and it’s like a roller coaster with no dips but scarier as you might actually derail. To be fair, the kid knew the tracks well and slowed down every time a piece was missing from the tracks (and replaced by a chock of wood).
Getting our train onto the tracks
Our view of the ride ahead
Our Whippersnapper train driver..

Battembang was a really lovely town, with a hint of the old world French architecture. It gave us time to meet more Cambodians, who are not 100% geared toward tourists - kids still wave and smile at you here. This was hard for us because every time we meet a new Tuk Tuk driver or Guest house owner, they were magic - yet there is sadness behind them as they struggle to make a living and provide for their families. Most Cambodians are cheeky and smiling (even when they are giving you the hard sell they can’t help but laugh) and for a nation that is still rebuilding financially and educationally from it’s desolation by the KR, they are amazing communicators. I have heard more Cambodians speak French and German, let alone wonderful English, compared to Thailand where tourist have invaded for years.